Gas Smell Near Water Heater: Emergency Guide

Gas Smell Near Water Heater: Is It an Emergency? What to Do Now

Introduction

Smelling gas near your water heater is one of the most alarming situations a homeowner can face. That distinctive rotten egg odor triggers an immediate sense of danger—and rightfully so. But here's what you need to know: not every gas smell from your water heater is a life-threatening emergency, though some absolutely are. The difference between a minor maintenance issue and a dangerous gas leak could literally be a matter of minutes.

In my 20 years as a licensed plumber, I've responded to hundreds of gas smell complaints at water heaters. About 70% of the time, the issue is something completely manageable. But that remaining 30%? Those are the calls that require immediate action. The critical skill is knowing which category your situation falls into, and understanding exactly what to do right now.

This comprehensive guide will walk you through how to identify whether your gas smell is a true emergency, the immediate safety steps you must take, the most common causes behind these odors, and why professional help is non-negotiable in certain situations. Whether you're dealing with a minor odor or suspect a serious gas leak, the information in this guide could protect your family and your home. Let's start by understanding what you're dealing with.

Normal vs. Dangerous Gas Odors from Water Heaters

The first critical distinction you need to understand is that not all gas smells from water heaters are created equal. Your water heater may produce odors for several different reasons, and your response should vary dramatically depending on which cause is responsible.

Understanding the Rotten Egg Smell

When you detect a gas smell near your water heater, you're usually smelling mercaptan, an additive mixed into natural gas by utility companies. This is the distinctive "rotten egg" or "sulfur" smell that makes gas leaks detectable. Here's the important part: mercaptan itself isn't the actual danger. It's added to odorless natural gas specifically so you can detect leaks. The danger is the natural gas itself, which is colorless, odorless, and highly flammable.

Natural gas is lighter than air and rises quickly. If you're smelling it, there are two possibilities: either there's a leak in your gas line or connections, or the smell is coming from inside the water heater itself (which is actually less dangerous, though still concerning).

Dangerous Gas Odors: Signs of a Real Emergency

You're facing a genuine emergency if you experience any of these warning signs:

Strong, overwhelming mercaptan smell that seems to be coming from the gas line itself rather than the water heater unit. This could indicate a leak in the supply line, connection fittings, or the gas valve. A strong gas smell that fills your entire room or house is absolutely an emergency situation.

Hissing or whistling sounds combined with gas smell. This indicates pressurized gas escaping from a crack or hole in the line. This is extremely dangerous and requires immediate evacuation.

Visible corrosion or wet spots on gas line connections combined with gas smell. Corrosion weakens metal connections, and moisture indicates active leaking. This is a serious hazard.

Gas smell that started suddenly and is getting stronger rather than fading. This suggests an active leak that's worsening.

Symptoms in household members including dizziness, nausea, headaches, or difficulty breathing combined with gas smell. These could indicate carbon monoxide issues or gas inhalation, both medical emergencies.

Normal Gas Odors: Less Urgent Issues

You're likely dealing with a non-emergency situation if:

The smell is faint and localized only very close to the water heater unit itself. This often indicates internal water heater issues rather than a gas line leak.

The smell is intermittent and seems to come and go, especially after the water heater fires up to heat water. This is a classic sign of a deteriorating anode rod or sediment buildup inside the tank.

The smell only appears when the water heater is actively heating. When the burner ignites and the heating cycle begins, internal chemical reactions can produce odors that smell like gas but aren't actually a gas leak.

You recently had the water heater serviced or the pilot light was relit. New installations or recent maintenance can produce temporary odors as components heat up and cure.

The gas smell is barely noticeable and doesn't intensify when you approach the water heater. This suggests the odor is residual and not from an active leak.

The fundamental difference: dangerous gas odors typically involve the supply line or connections and are associated with strong, persistent, or intensifying smells. Non-emergency odors usually involve the water heater unit itself and are fainter, localized, or intermittent.

Immediate Safety Steps if You Smell Gas

If you're currently smelling gas near your water heater, follow these steps in this exact order. Don't skip any of them, and don't deviate from this sequence.

Step 1: Assess the Smell Intensity (30 seconds)

First, determine whether you're dealing with a strong or faint smell. This assessment will determine your next actions.

For a strong, overwhelming gas smell: Proceed immediately to Step 2 (Evacuate). Don't investigate further.

For a moderate gas smell: Proceed to Step 3 (Ventilate).

For a faint gas smell: You can proceed to Step 3 (Ventilate) and then Step 4 (Investigate).

The reason this matters: if the smell is strong enough to be immediately noticeable throughout a room, there may be enough gas accumulation to create an explosion hazard if you turn on electrical switches, light fixtures, or create sparks.

Step 2: Evacuate Immediately (If Strong Smell)

If you're detecting a strong, unmistakable gas smell:

Leave your home immediately. Don't waste time gathering belongings or pets. Get everyone out of the house now.

Don't use your phone inside the house. Once you're safely outside, use your cell phone or a neighbor's phone to call your gas utility's emergency line. In the United States, you can call 911 for gas emergencies, but most gas utilities also have dedicated emergency numbers (usually on your bill).

Don't use any electrical switches or devices. Creating an electrical spark could ignite accumulated gas. This includes light switches, garage door openers, thermostats, or anything that creates a spark.

Don't use your car's ignition if it's in the garage. The ignition spark is a potential hazard.

Wait outside for emergency responders. The gas utility will send technicians to assess the situation. Don't re-enter your home until they've cleared it as safe.

Call your emergency plumber after the gas utility has assessed the situation. Once gas company has confirmed there's no active gas leak, then you can arrange for plumbing service.

This evacuation protocol might seem excessive, but natural gas explosions in homes kill approximately 40-50 people annually in the United States. The risk is real, and the consequences are catastrophic.

Step 3: Ventilate the Area (If Moderate or Faint Smell)

If you're dealing with a moderate or faint smell, your first action is to improve air circulation:

Open windows and doors immediately to create cross-ventilation. Get fresh air flowing through the area where you smell gas. This dilutes any gas concentration and helps odors dissipate.

Turn on exhaust fans in the room where the water heater is located. If your water heater is in the basement, turn on any basement exhaust fans. If it's in a laundry room, turn on that exhaust fan.

Don't use the HVAC system to circulate air if you suspect a gas leak. Your central heating/cooling system could distribute gas throughout your entire home. Keep it off.

Keep pets and children away from the water heater area while you investigate.

Let the area ventilate for at least 15-20 minutes before proceeding to Step 4.

Step 4: Investigate (Only for Faint Smells)

Once you've ventilated the area and the smell has dissipated somewhat, you can safely investigate the source. This step is only appropriate for faint, non-threatening smells.

Look for visible signs of gas leaks:

• Corrosion on connections: Look at where the gas line connects to the water heater. Gas lines should be shiny and clean. If you see white, blue, or green crusty buildup, this indicates corrosion and potential leaking.
• Wet spots or moisture around connections or on the gas line itself
• Obvious cracks or damage to the gas line (though this is rare)
• Loose fittings that you can see moving or appearing disconnected

Check the water heater itself for signs of problems:

• Rust or corrosion on the water heater tank
• Leaking water from the bottom or sides of the tank
• The pilot light status (if you can safely see it)

Do NOT attempt to tighten connections yourself. Even if you see a loose fitting, don't try to tighten it. Gas line work requires a licensed professional. Improper tightening can actually make the problem worse.

Do NOT relight the pilot light yourself if it's out. If the pilot light is out and you smell gas, this is potentially serious. Call a professional.

Step 5: Call Your Emergency Plumber

Based on what you've observed:

Call immediately (within the hour) if you see:

• Any corrosion on gas connections
• Any visible moisture around the gas line
• Any obvious damage to the gas line
• The pilot light won't stay lit
• The gas smell doesn't dissipate after 30 minutes of ventilation

Call within 24 hours if:

• You smell gas only when the water heater is actively heating
• The smell is very faint and localized to the water heater unit
• You've ventilated and the smell is mostly gone

When you call, provide:

• The exact location of your water heater
• Description of the smell (faint, moderate, strong; when it occurs)
• Any visible signs you observed
• Your water heater's age (if you know it)
• Whether you've had any recent issues with hot water

Common Causes of Gas Odors (Anode Rod, Sediment, Leaks)

Now that you understand emergency protocol, let's explore what's actually causing the gas smell. Understanding the root cause helps you determine urgency and understand what the professional will need to fix.

The Anode Rod: The Most Common Culprit

The anode rod is a metal rod (usually made of magnesium or aluminum) that sits inside your water heater tank. Its sole purpose is to corrode instead of your tank. It's a sacrificial component designed to protect the steel tank from rust.

How it causes gas smells:

As the anode rod deteriorates and corrodes, it undergoes a chemical reaction with the water inside the tank. This reaction produces hydrogen gas as a byproduct. Hydrogen itself is odorless, but when it combines with sulfur compounds naturally present in water, it creates that distinctive rotten egg or mercaptan-like smell.

Why this is NOT a gas leak emergency:

The hydrogen gas being produced is trapped inside the water heater tank. It's not escaping into your home in dangerous quantities. The smell you're detecting is the odor of the chemical reaction, not actual natural gas leaking from a supply line.

Signs this is your problem:

• The smell is faint and only noticeable very close to the water heater
• The smell is strongest right after the water heater fires up to heat water
• The smell dissipates within a few minutes after the heating cycle ends
• Your water heater is more than 5-7 years old
• You notice hot water that smells slightly sulfurous when you run a tap

What needs to happen:

The anode rod needs to be replaced. This is a standard maintenance procedure that costs $150-$300 and takes about an hour. A licensed plumber will drain the tank partially, remove the old anode rod, and install a new one. This is not an emergency, but it should be done soon to prevent tank corrosion.

Sediment Buildup in the Tank

Over time, minerals and sediment accumulate at the bottom of your water heater tank. This is especially common in areas with hard water. As this sediment heats and breaks down, it can produce hydrogen gas and create sulfur-like odors.

How sediment causes gas smells:

Sediment contains minerals like calcium and magnesium. When heated repeatedly, these minerals break down and react with the water and tank materials. These chemical reactions produce hydrogen gas, which creates that rotten egg smell when combined with sulfur compounds.

Why this is NOT a gas leak emergency:

Like the anode rod issue, the gas being produced is trapped inside the tank. You're smelling the byproduct of chemical reactions inside the tank, not a gas leak from the supply line.

Signs this is your problem:

• The smell appears intermittently, usually when the water heater is heating
• Your water heater hasn't been flushed or serviced in several years
• You notice reduced hot water pressure or quantity
• You hear rumbling, popping, or crackling sounds from the water heater
• You live in an area known for hard water

What needs to happen:

Your water heater needs to be flushed and descaled. This involves draining the tank completely, flushing out accumulated sediment, and refilling. This is a maintenance procedure that costs $100-$200 and should be done annually or every two years, depending on your water hardness. Flushing removes the sediment and eliminates the chemical reactions causing the smell.

Actual Gas Line Leaks

This is the emergency scenario. An actual gas leak means natural gas is escaping from the supply line, connections, or the gas valve on the water heater.

Why gas line leaks are dangerous:

Natural gas is highly flammable. A concentration of just 5-15% natural gas in air creates an explosive mixture. A single spark—from a light switch, electrical outlet, or static electricity—could ignite this mixture and cause an explosion. Additionally, if natural gas accumulates in an enclosed space without adequate ventilation, it can displace oxygen and cause asphyxiation.

Signs of an actual gas leak:

• Strong, persistent mercaptan smell that doesn't fade
• Hissing or whistling sounds from the gas line or connection
• Visible corrosion (white, blue, or green crusty buildup) on connections
• Moisture or wet spots around the gas line
• The smell is coming from the supply line or connections, not the water heater unit itself
• The smell is present even when the water heater isn't actively heating
• Multiple household members experiencing symptoms (dizziness, nausea, headaches)

Common causes of gas leaks:

Corroded connections: Gas lines and fittings can corrode over time, especially in humid environments like basements. Corrosion weakens the metal, creating small holes or cracks where gas escapes.

Loose fittings: The connections where the gas line meets the water heater or where sections of gas line connect can loosen over time. Vibration from the water heater or settling of the house can cause fittings to work loose.

Cracked gas line: Though rare, the gas line itself can crack due to physical damage, improper installation, or age. This is a serious hazard.

Faulty gas valve: The gas valve on the water heater controls gas flow. If the valve develops a leak or crack, gas can escape.

What needs to happen:

This requires immediate professional intervention. Your gas utility should be called first for safety assessment. Then a licensed plumber will identify and repair the leak. Depending on the cause, this might involve replacing a corroded fitting ($100-$300), tightening loose connections ($50-$150), replacing a section of gas line ($200-$500), or replacing the gas valve ($150-$400). In some cases, the entire water heater may need replacement if the leak is from a corroded or damaged unit.

Why You Should Call a Professional Immediately

At this point, you might be wondering: can't I just fix this myself? The answer is an emphatic no, and here's exactly why professional help is non-negotiable.

Safety Regulations and Code Requirements

Gas line work is heavily regulated for good reason. Natural gas is dangerous, and improper repairs can be catastrophic. Here's what you need to understand:

Gas line work requires a licensed plumber. In virtually every state and municipality, only licensed professionals are legally permitted to work on natural gas lines. This isn't a suggestion—it's the law. If you attempt gas line repairs yourself and something goes wrong, you could face serious legal liability.

Your homeowner's insurance won't cover DIY gas work. If you attempt to repair a gas line yourself and it causes an accident, fire, or explosion, your homeowner's insurance will deny your claim. You'll be personally liable for all damages, injuries, and deaths. We're talking about potential liability in the hundreds of thousands of dollars.

Building codes require professional installation and permits. Any gas line work must be done according to your local building codes and requires a permit. The work must be inspected by a building inspector to ensure it's done correctly. DIY work won't pass inspection, and you could be forced to have it redone by a professional anyway.

Technical Knowledge Required

Gas line work isn't intuitive, and mistakes are dangerous:

Proper pressure testing: After any gas line repair, the system must be pressure tested to ensure there are no leaks. This requires specialized equipment that you don't have.

Correct materials: Not all metal connectors are appropriate for gas lines. Using the wrong materials can lead to corrosion or failure.

Proper connection techniques: Gas connections must be made with specific fittings and sealants. Teflon tape, for example, should be used on certain connections but not others. Using the wrong sealant can cause leaks.

Identifying the actual problem: What looks like a gas leak might actually be something else. A professional can diagnose the real issue, while you might fix the wrong thing.

The Cost of Mistakes

Consider the potential consequences of DIY gas line work:

Gas explosion: A single mistake could result in a gas explosion that destroys your home, injures or kills family members, and creates liability for injuries to neighbors. Average home explosion damage: $100,000-$500,000+.

Gas leak that goes undetected: If you think you've fixed the problem but haven't actually done it correctly, you could have a slow gas leak that accumulates over time. This could result in an explosion days or weeks later.

Carbon monoxide poisoning: Improper gas line work can lead to carbon monoxide production, which is odorless and deadly. You wouldn't know you had a problem until someone got sick.

Voided warranties: Any work you do yourself voids your water heater's warranty. If something else goes wrong, you're paying for all repairs out of pocket.

What a Professional Will Do

When you call a licensed emergency plumber for a gas smell issue, here's what you can expect:

Initial assessment: The plumber will use their nose and experience to determine whether the smell is from a gas leak or internal water heater issue. They'll look for visible signs of problems.

Pressure testing: If a gas leak is suspected, they'll use specialized equipment to pressure test the gas line and identify exactly where the leak is occurring.

Identification of root cause: They'll determine whether the problem is a corroded fitting, loose connection, faulty valve, or something else.

Repair or replacement: Based on their diagnosis, they'll repair or replace the problematic component. If it's a corroded fitting, they'll replace it with new brass or stainless steel fittings. If it's a loose connection, they'll tighten it properly with the right tools. If it's a faulty valve, they'll replace it.

Final pressure test: After repairs, they'll pressure test the system again to ensure the repair was successful and there are no remaining leaks.

Documentation: They'll provide documentation of the work done, which is important for your insurance and future reference.

Cost: Emergency plumber rates for gas-related work typically run $150-$250 per hour for the service call, plus parts and materials. For a simple repair like tightening a fitting or replacing a corroded connection, expect $200-$400 total. For more complex work like replacing a gas valve or section of gas line, expect $300-$600. Emergency rates (nights, weekends, holidays) may add $50-$150 to the bill.

These costs are absolutely worth the safety and peace of mind you get.

Preventing Water Heater Emergencies: Maintenance Tips

The best way to handle a water heater emergency is to prevent it from happening in the first place. Regular maintenance catches problems before they become dangerous.

Annual Professional Inspection

Schedule a professional water heater inspection every year, ideally before winter when water heaters work hardest. During this inspection, a licensed plumber will:

• Check for corrosion on the tank and connections
• Inspect the gas line and all connections for signs of problems
• Test the temperature and pressure relief valve
• Check the pilot light and burner
• Listen for unusual sounds that indicate sediment buildup
• Assess the overall condition of the water heater

This annual inspection costs $75-$150 but can catch problems before they become emergencies. Think of it as insurance against catastrophic failure.

Flush Your Water Heater Every 1-2 Years

Flushing removes sediment buildup that causes multiple problems including reduced efficiency, rumbling sounds, and gas-like odors. To flush your water heater:

1. Turn off the water heater (gas or electric)
2. Turn off the cold water supply to the tank
3. Attach a garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the tank
4. Direct the hose to a floor drain or outside
5. Open the drain valve and let the tank drain completely (this takes 30-60 minutes)
6. Once empty, turn the cold water supply back on briefly to flush out remaining sediment
7. Repeat the flushing process 2-3 times until the water runs clear
8. Close the drain valve
9. Turn the cold water supply back on
10. Turn the water heater back on

This process takes about 2 hours and costs $0 if you do it yourself or $100-$200 if you hire a professional. If you're not comfortable doing it yourself, professional flushing is worth the cost.

Replace the Anode Rod Every 5-7 Years

The anode rod protects your tank from rust but deteriorates over time. Have it inspected during your annual professional inspection. If it's more than 50% deteriorated, replace it. Replacement costs $150-$300 and extends your water heater's lifespan by several years.

Inspect Gas Connections Quarterly

Every three months, visually inspect the gas line and connections for signs of corrosion or moisture. Look for:

• White, blue, or green crusty buildup (corrosion)
• Wet spots or moisture
• Obvious damage or cracks
• Loose-looking connections

If you notice any of these signs, call a professional immediately. Catching corrosion early prevents leaks.

Keep the Area Around Your Water Heater Clean and Dry

Moisture accelerates corrosion of gas lines and connections. If your water heater is in a basement:

• Fix any leaks in the basement immediately
• Use a dehumidifier if the basement is damp
• Ensure proper drainage around the foundation
• Improve ventilation in the basement

If your water heater is in a garage or laundry room, keep the area dry and well-ventilated.

Monitor Water Temperature and Pressure

Test your water heater's temperature and pressure relief valve annually. This valve is a safety device that prevents excessive pressure or temperature buildup inside the tank. To test it:

1. Place a bucket under the discharge pipe
2. Lift the lever on the relief valve briefly
3. You should hear a hiss of steam and see water discharge
4. Release the lever
5. If no water discharged, the valve may be stuck or faulty and needs replacement

A stuck relief valve is a serious hazard and requires professional replacement ($100-$200).

Know Your Water Heater's Age

Most water heaters last 8-12 years. If yours is approaching 10 years old, start planning for replacement. An aging water heater is more likely to develop leaks, corrosion, and gas-related problems. Replacing a failing water heater before it becomes an emergency is much cheaper than dealing with an emergency repair or water damage.

Install a Carbon Monoxide Detector

If your water heater is inside your living space (not in a separate utility room), install a carbon monoxide detector nearby. Carbon monoxide is produced when gas burns, and a malfunctioning water heater could produce dangerous levels. A carbon monoxide detector costs $20-$50 and could save your life.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is a rotten egg smell from my water heater always dangerous?

No, it's not always dangerous, but it always warrants investigation. A rotten egg or sulfur smell from your water heater is most commonly caused by a deteriorating anode rod or sediment buildup inside the tank. These are non-emergency issues that need professional attention but aren't immediately life-threatening. However, if the smell is strong, persistent, or accompanied by hissing sounds or visible corrosion on gas connections, it could indicate a dangerous gas leak. The safest approach is to call a professional to determine the cause. They can diagnose the problem quickly and let you know whether it's urgent or can wait for a scheduled appointment.

What should I do if I smell gas in my house but can't locate the source?

If you smell gas throughout your house and can't pinpoint the source, treat it as a potential emergency. Open windows and doors immediately to ventilate. Turn off your gas supply at the meter if you know how to do so safely. Call your gas utility's emergency line (usually on your gas bill) or call 911. Don't use electrical switches, phones, or anything that could create a spark. Wait outside for emergency responders. Once the gas utility has assessed the situation and confirmed it's safe, then call a plumber if the problem is related to your water heater or other gas appliances.

Can I use a gas leak detector to check my water heater?

Commercial gas leak detectors can be useful for identifying gas leaks, but they're not a substitute for professional diagnosis. If you own a gas leak detector and want to use it, that's fine, but remember: a negative result doesn't mean there's no leak (detectors can be unreliable), and a positive result still requires professional assessment to determine the exact location and severity of the leak. Never rely solely on a consumer-grade detector. If you suspect a gas leak, call a professional regardless of what a detector shows.

How much does it cost to fix a gas leak on a water heater?

The cost depends entirely on what's causing the leak. A simple repair like tightening a loose fitting might cost $50-$150 plus the service call fee ($75-$150). Replacing a corroded fitting costs $100-$300 plus service call. Replacing a faulty gas valve costs $150-$400 plus service call. A more serious problem like replacing a section of gas line could cost $200-$600 plus service call. Emergency service (nights, weekends, holidays) typically adds $50-$150. For a non-emergency gas leak repair, expect to pay $200-$500 total. For emergency service, expect $300-$700. Always get a quote before agreeing to work.

Should I have my water heater's gas connections inspected even if I don't smell gas?

Yes, absolutely. Annual professional inspection of your water heater—including gas connections—is a smart preventive measure. Many gas leaks develop slowly, and you might not notice the smell until the leak is significant. A professional inspection can catch corrosion, loose connections, and other problems before they become emergencies. An annual inspection costs $75-$150 and can prevent costly emergency repairs and safety hazards. If your water heater is more than 5 years old or in a damp environment (basement, garage), consider having it inspected every 6 months.

What's the difference between mercaptan smell and actual natural gas?

Mercaptan is an additive mixed into natural gas by utility companies. Natural gas itself is completely odorless and colorless, which makes it impossible to detect leaks. Mercaptan is added specifically so you can smell leaks. When you smell that rotten egg or sulfur smell near a gas appliance, you're smelling mercaptan, which means natural gas is present. The mercaptan itself isn't dangerous, but the natural gas is. The smell is your warning system. Any time you smell mercaptan, investigate or call a professional. The presence of mercaptan smell means natural gas is present, and natural gas is flammable and potentially dangerous.

How do I know if my water heater's anode rod needs replacement?

During a professional inspection, the plumber can remove and visually inspect the anode rod. If it's more than 50% corroded or nearly completely deteriorated, it needs replacement. You might also notice signs like a rotten egg smell from the water heater, reduced hot water quantity or pressure, or rumbling sounds from the tank. These can all indicate an aging or failing anode rod. Most anode rods last 5-7 years, so if your water heater is in that age range and you haven't had the rod replaced, it's probably time. Replacement costs $150-$300 and extends your water heater's lifespan significantly.

Conclusion

A gas smell near your water heater deserves immediate attention, but not every gas smell is a life-threatening emergency. The key is understanding the difference between dangerous gas leaks and non-emergency issues like anode rod deterioration or sediment buildup.

Here's your action plan: If you're currently smelling gas near your water heater, start by assessing the smell's intensity. A strong, overwhelming smell requires immediate evacuation and a call to your gas utility. A moderate or faint smell warrants ventilation and a call to a licensed emergency plumber. In either case, never attempt to diagnose or repair the problem yourself—gas line work requires professional expertise and licensing.

The most common causes of gas-like smells from water heaters are the anode rod deteriorating inside the tank and sediment buildup. These produce hydrogen gas and sulfur-like odors but aren't gas leaks. They require professional attention but aren't emergencies. Actual gas leaks are less common but far more dangerous and require immediate professional intervention.

Prevention is your best defense. Schedule annual professional inspections, flush your water heater every 1-2 years, replace the anode rod every 5-7 years, and keep the area around your water heater clean and dry. These maintenance steps catch problems before they become emergencies.

When you need professional help, call a licensed plumber immediately. Emergency plumbers are available 24/7 and can diagnose and repair gas-related water heater problems safely and correctly. The cost of professional service is far less than the potential consequences of DIY mistakes.

Your family's safety depends on taking gas smells seriously and getting professional help promptly. Don't delay—if you're smelling gas near your water heater, call an emergency plumber today.