How to Fix a Dripping Faucet: DIY Methods to Stop Water Waste

How to Fix a Dripping Faucet: DIY Methods to Stop Water Waste & Save Money

Introduction

A dripping faucet is one of the most common household plumbing problems, yet it's also one of the easiest to fix yourself. That persistent drip-drip-drip sound echoing through your sink isn't just annoying—it's costing you money and wasting precious water. According to the EPA, a single faucet dripping at the rate of one drip per second wastes more than 3,000 gallons of water per year. That's equivalent to the water needed to take over 180 showers. Beyond the environmental impact, a leaky faucet can add $35 or more to your annual water bill, depending on your local water rates.

The good news? Most dripping faucets can be repaired in under an hour with basic tools and minimal plumbing knowledge. Whether you're dealing with a bathroom sink, kitchen faucet, or outdoor spigot, this comprehensive guide will walk you through identifying your faucet type and fixing the problem yourself. You don't need to be a licensed plumber to handle this repair—just some patience, the right tools, and clear instructions. This guide is designed for homeowners with basic DIY skills and covers all four major faucet types you're likely to encounter. Even if you've never attempted a plumbing repair before, you can successfully fix a dripping faucet and save yourself the $150-$300 service call fee that a professional plumber would charge.

Safety First: Important Precautions

Before you begin any faucet repair, safety should be your top priority. While fixing a dripping faucet is generally a safe DIY project, there are several important precautions to take to protect yourself and your home.

Turn off the water supply. This is the most critical step. Locate the shut-off valve under your sink—it's typically a small knob or lever on the hot and cold water lines. Turn both valves clockwise until they stop. If you can't find the shut-off valves under the sink, you may need to turn off the main water supply to your home. Never attempt to repair a faucet without shutting off the water first, as you could flood your bathroom or kitchen.

Drain remaining water. After shutting off the water, turn on the faucet to release any remaining water pressure in the lines. This prevents water from spraying unexpectedly when you disconnect components.

Wear appropriate protective gear. While not always necessary, wearing safety glasses protects your eyes from debris or water spray when working under the sink. Wear work gloves to protect your hands from sharp edges on metal components and to improve your grip on wet parts.

Know your limits. If you encounter corroded pipes, signs of mold, or water damage under the sink, stop immediately and call a professional plumber. Similarly, if your faucet is connected to a gas line or if you discover any unusual smells (like gas), evacuate the area and contact your utility company before proceeding.

Work in a well-lit area. Ensure you have adequate lighting under the sink. Use a headlamp or have someone hold a flashlight so you can see what you're doing clearly.

Protect your floors. Place towels or a bucket under the sink to catch any remaining water that may drip out during the repair process. This prevents water damage to your cabinets and floors.

Tools and Materials You'll Need

Before you start the repair, gather all necessary tools and materials. Having everything on hand before you begin prevents frustrating trips to the hardware store mid-project.

Essential Tools:

Adjustable wrench ($8-$15) - This is your most important tool. You'll use it to loosen and tighten nuts under the sink. An 8-inch adjustable wrench works for most residential faucet repairs.

Screwdrivers ($5-$20 for a set) - You'll need both Phillips head and flathead screwdrivers. Many faucet handle screws are hidden under decorative caps, which often require a flathead screwdriver to pry open.

Allen wrench set ($5-$15) - Some faucet handles are secured with Allen screws (hex-shaped). A complete set gives you options.

Pliers ($10-$25) - Tongue-and-groove pliers or slip-joint pliers help you grip and turn components. Water pump pliers work well for this purpose.

Flashlight or headlamp ($10-$30) - Working under the sink is dark. A headlamp frees both your hands for the repair.

Bucket or towels ($0-$5) - Essential for catching water and protecting your floors.

Helpful but optional tools:

Faucet seat wrench ($8-$12) - Specifically designed for removing the faucet seat in compression faucets. This makes the job easier, though an adjustable wrench can work in a pinch.

O-ring pick or small hook ($5-$10) - Helps you remove small O-rings and seals without damaging them.

Penetrating oil ($5-$8) - If components are stuck or corroded, penetrating oil like WD-40 helps loosen them.

Materials and Replacement Parts:

The specific parts you'll need depend on your faucet type, but common items include:

Washers and O-rings ($3-$10) - These are the most common cause of dripping faucets. Purchase a variety pack that includes different sizes.

Cartridge or valve assembly ($15-$50) - If your faucet has a cartridge valve, you may need to replace it. Bring your faucet model number to the hardware store to ensure you get the correct part.

Seat and spring kit ($5-$15) - For compression faucets, replacing the seat and springs often solves the problem.

Ceramic disk cartridge ($20-$60) - If your faucet uses ceramic disks, the entire cartridge may need replacement.

Plumber's grease or silicone-based lubricant ($5-$10) - Use this to lubricate O-rings and seals during reassembly.

Where to buy: Home Depot, Lowe's, Ace Hardware, and local plumbing supply shops all carry these items. Many hardware stores have staff who can help you identify your faucet type and recommend the correct parts. Some stores offer free parts identification services—bring photos or the faucet model number if you're unsure.

Total estimated cost: $30-$75 for tools and materials, compared to $150-$300 for a professional plumber service call.

Identifying Your Faucet Type

Before you begin repairs, you must identify which of the four main faucet types you have. Each type has different internal mechanisms and requires different repair approaches.

Compression Faucets:

Compression faucets are the oldest and most common type, especially in older homes. They feature two separate handles—one for hot water and one for cold water. When you turn the handle, a rubber washer compresses against a metal seat, stopping water flow.

How to identify: Two separate handles (one hot, one cold), handles turn in a circular motion, typically found in older homes or budget-friendly models.

Common problems: The rubber washers wear out over time, causing drips. The metal seat can also become corroded or damaged.

Ball Faucets:

Ball faucets have a single handle that moves over a rounded cap (the "ball"). The handle controls water flow by adjusting the position of the ball, which has three holes that align with hot, cold, and mixed water supplies.

How to identify: Single handle, rounded cap under the handle, handle moves side-to-side and up-and-down, commonly found in kitchens.

Common problems: Internal seals and springs wear out, causing leaks. The ball itself can become damaged or corroded.

Cartridge Faucets:

Cartridge faucets have a single handle that moves up and down (or side to side) to control water flow and temperature. Inside is a cartridge—a cylindrical component with channels that direct water flow.

How to identify: Single handle, handle moves vertically or horizontally, cartridge visible when you remove the handle, found in modern bathrooms and some kitchens.

Common problems: The cartridge wears out or becomes mineral-clogged, causing drips or difficulty controlling temperature.

Ceramic Disk Faucets:

Ceramic disk faucets are the newest type and represent the highest-quality standard. They use a ceramic disk cartridge with two ceramic disks that slide against each other to control water flow.

How to identify: Single handle, wide cylindrical body under the handle, handle moves side-to-side, very smooth operation, found in high-end kitchens and bathrooms.

Common problems: Mineral deposits clog the disks, or the seals around the cartridge fail, causing leaks.

Step-by-Step Repair Guide for Each Faucet Type

Repairing a Compression Faucet

Step 1: Identify which side is dripping. Is the hot water side dripping, the cold water side, or both? This tells you which handle you need to repair. If both sides drip, you'll need to repeat this process for each side.

Step 2: Remove the handle. Look for a small screw on the handle—it's often hidden under a decorative cap or button. Pry off the cap with a flathead screwdriver and remove the screw underneath. The handle should now pull straight off.

Step 3: Remove the packing nut. Under the handle, you'll see a large hexagonal nut called the packing nut. Use your adjustable wrench to turn it counterclockwise. You may need to apply penetrating oil if it's stuck. Remove the packing nut completely.

Step 4: Remove the stem. The stem is the long shaft that moves up and down when you turn the handle. Turn it counterclockwise (like opening a jar) to unscrew it from the faucet body. This may take several full rotations.

Step 5: Remove the washer. At the bottom of the stem, you'll find a small brass screw holding the rubber washer in place. Remove this screw with a screwdriver and take out the washer. This washer is almost certainly the culprit—rubber deteriorates over time and no longer seals properly.

Step 6: Inspect the seat. Look inside the faucet body where the stem was. You should see a metal seat. Run your finger over it—it should be smooth. If it's pitted, corroded, or rough, the seat is damaged and needs replacement. If the seat is damaged, use a faucet seat wrench to remove it, then install a new one.

Step 7: Replace the washer and spring. Install a new rubber washer of the same size and secure it with the brass screw. While you're at it, check the spring underneath the seat. If it's corroded or weak, replace it with a new one from your repair kit.

Step 8: Reassemble the faucet. Screw the stem back into the faucet body by turning it clockwise. Don't over-tighten—turn it until it stops naturally. Replace the packing nut and tighten it with your wrench. Reinstall the handle and its decorative cap.

Step 9: Test your work. Turn the water supply back on and test the faucet. The drip should stop completely. If water still drips, you may need to replace the seat or check that the washer is the correct size.

Repairing a Ball Faucet

Step 1: Remove the handle. Look for a small set screw on the handle (often hidden under a decorative cap). Remove this screw and the handle should pull straight off.

Step 2: Remove the cap and collar. Under the handle, you'll see a rounded cap and a collar nut. Use an adjustable wrench to remove the collar nut by turning it counterclockwise.

Step 3: Remove the ball and cam. Once the collar is off, you can remove the rounded ball (the distinctive feature of this faucet type). Underneath you'll find a cam and cam washer. Remove these components carefully.

Step 4: Remove the inlet seals and springs. Inside the faucet body, you'll find two inlet seals (one for hot water, one for cold) held in place by springs. Use a small hook or O-ring pick to carefully remove these seals and springs. These are the most common cause of dripping in ball faucets.

Step 5: Install new seals and springs. Take your replacement seals and springs from your repair kit and install them in the same positions. Make sure they're seated properly—the spring goes in first, then the seal on top.

Step 6: Reassemble the faucet. Reinstall the cam washer, cam, and ball in reverse order. Replace the collar nut and tighten it with your wrench. Reinstall the handle and its set screw.

Step 7: Test the repair. Turn the water supply back on and test both hot and cold water. The drip should stop. If the faucet still drips, the problem may be with the ball itself or the faucet seat, which would require professional replacement.

Repairing a Cartridge Faucet

Step 1: Remove the handle. Look for a small screw on the handle (often under a decorative cap or button). Remove this screw and pull the handle straight off.

Step 2: Remove the decorative collar. Some cartridge faucets have a decorative collar around the base of the handle. Pry this off gently with a flathead screwdriver.

Step 3: Remove the cartridge retaining nut. You'll see a large nut holding the cartridge in place. Use an adjustable wrench to turn this counterclockwise and remove it completely.

Step 4: Remove the cartridge. The cartridge should now pull straight out. You may need to wiggle it gently side-to-side while pulling. Some cartridges have a small pin or clip holding them in place—remove these first if present.

Step 5: Inspect the cartridge. Look at the removed cartridge for mineral deposits, cracks, or obvious damage. If it's heavily encrusted with mineral deposits, you can try cleaning it with white vinegar and a small brush. Soak it for 30 minutes, then scrub gently and rinse thoroughly.

Step 6: Replace if necessary. If cleaning doesn't restore proper function, or if the cartridge is cracked or damaged, you'll need to replace it. Take the old cartridge to the hardware store to ensure you get the correct replacement—cartridges vary by manufacturer.

Step 7: Install the new cartridge. Slide the new cartridge into the faucet body, making sure it's oriented correctly (usually there's a small alignment mark or flat edge). Replace the retaining nut and tighten it with your wrench.

Step 8: Reassemble and test. Replace the decorative collar if applicable, reinstall the handle, and turn the water supply back on. Test both hot and cold water operation. The faucet should operate smoothly without dripping.

Repairing a Ceramic Disk Faucet

Step 1: Remove the handle. Locate the small set screw on the handle (usually under a decorative cap). Remove this screw and pull the handle off.

Step 2: Remove the cap and collar. Under the handle, you'll see a decorative cap covering the ceramic disk cartridge. Use an adjustable wrench to remove the collar nut underneath.

Step 3: Remove the cartridge. The ceramic disk cartridge should now lift straight out. Ceramic disk cartridges are rarely repairable—they're designed as sealed units.

Step 4: Inspect the cartridge. Look at the bottom of the cartridge for mineral deposits. If you see white or tan crusty buildup, this is likely the problem. Try soaking the cartridge in white vinegar for 30 minutes and gently scrubbing with a soft brush. Rinse thoroughly under running water.

Step 5: Reinstall or replace. If cleaning restores function, reinstall the cartridge. If the cartridge is still defective or if cleaning doesn't help, you'll need to replace it with a new one. Ceramic disk cartridges are more expensive ($30-$60) than other faucet parts, but they're also more durable long-term.

Step 6: Reassemble the faucet. Replace the collar nut and tighten it with your wrench. Reinstall the decorative cap and handle. Turn the water supply back on and test the faucet.

Step 7: Test thoroughly. Ceramic disk faucets should operate very smoothly. Test both the on/off function and the temperature control. The faucet should respond immediately to handle movement with no dripping.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Problem: You turned off the water supply, but water still flows from the faucet.

Solution: You may have turned off the wrong valves. Under most sinks, there are separate shut-off valves for hot and cold water. Make sure you turned off both. If you don't see shut-off valves under the sink, you need to turn off the main water supply to your home. Locate your main water meter (usually in the basement, garage, or outside near your home's foundation) and turn the valve there clockwise until it stops.

Problem: The shut-off valve is stuck or won't turn.

Solution: Spray penetrating oil (like WD-40) around the valve and wait 15 minutes. Try turning it again gently—don't force it or you may break the valve. If it still won't budge, you may need to call a plumber to shut off the main water supply and replace the stuck valve.

Problem: You removed the handle, but there's no visible screw.

Solution: The screw is likely hidden under a decorative cap or button. Look carefully around the base of the handle for a small cap. Try prying it gently with a flathead screwdriver. Some handles are held on with set screws on the side of the handle rather than underneath.

Problem: The components are corroded or stuck together.

Solution: Apply penetrating oil and wait 15-30 minutes before trying again. Never force stuck components—you may break them and make the repair more expensive. If penetrating oil doesn't help, this is a good time to call a professional plumber who has specialized tools for removing stuck components.

Problem: You replaced the washer, but the faucet still drips.

Solution: The faucet seat may be damaged. Inspect it carefully under good lighting—if it's pitted or corroded, it needs replacement. Use a faucet seat wrench to remove the old seat and install a new one. If the seat looks fine, the problem may be that the new washer is the wrong size. Check that it matches the original washer exactly.

Problem: Water is leaking from under the sink after reassembly.

Solution: You may have over-tightened a connection, cracking a component, or you may not have reassembled the faucet correctly. Turn off the water supply immediately and check all connections under the sink. Make sure all nuts are tight but not over-tightened. If water is leaking from the faucet body itself (not from under the sink), you may have installed a part incorrectly. Disassemble and reassemble carefully, making sure each component is seated properly.

Problem: The faucet works, but it leaks from the base where it connects to the sink.

Solution: This indicates a problem with the seal between the faucet and the sink. This is a more complex repair that typically requires removing the entire faucet. Unless you're experienced with plumbing, this is a good time to call a professional.

When to Call a Professional Plumber

While many faucet repairs are DIY-friendly, certain situations warrant calling a professional plumber. Knowing when to stop and call for help prevents costly mistakes and potential water damage.

Call a professional if:

The faucet is permanently installed or you can't access the shut-off valves. Some high-end or specialty faucets are permanently installed and can't be disassembled by homeowners. Similarly, if you can't locate or access the shut-off valves under your sink, you shouldn't attempt the repair yourself.

You discover corrosion, rust, or mold under the sink. These signs indicate water damage that may have compromised the structural integrity of your cabinets or the pipes themselves. A professional plumber can assess the extent of the damage and make appropriate repairs.

The pipes under the sink are leaking. If the leak is coming from the pipes themselves rather than the faucet, this requires professional attention. Leaking pipes can indicate corrosion or damage that could lead to more serious problems.

You smell gas or notice any unusual odors. If you detect a gas smell while working under the sink, stop immediately and evacuate the area. Call your gas utility company's emergency line. Do not attempt any repairs if there's a potential gas leak.

The faucet has a built-in water filter or special features. Some modern faucets have integrated water filters, pull-out sprayers, or other special features that require professional service.

You've tried the repair and it didn't work. If you've followed the steps carefully and the faucet still drips, the problem may be more complex than a simple washer or seal replacement. A professional can diagnose the issue and recommend the best solution.

The shut-off valves won't turn off the water completely. If water continues to flow even after you've turned off the shut-off valves, those valves may be faulty and need replacement. This requires turning off the main water supply, which is beyond the scope of most DIY repairs.

You're not comfortable working with plumbing. There's no shame in calling a professional. A plumber can complete the repair in 30-60 minutes, and the peace of mind may be worth the $150-$300 service call.

Cost comparison: A professional plumber charges $75-$150 for a service call, plus $75-$200 per hour for labor. A simple faucet repair typically takes 30-60 minutes, so you're looking at $150-$300 total. By doing it yourself, you save this entire cost and only spend $30-$75 on materials. However, if you're uncomfortable with the repair or encounter complications, calling a professional prevents costly mistakes.

Water Waste Impact: Why Fixing Drips Matters

That persistent drip from your faucet isn't just an annoyance—it's a significant source of water waste and unnecessary expense. Understanding the impact of leaky faucets motivates many homeowners to fix them promptly.

The numbers are sobering. A single faucet dripping at one drop per second wastes 3,154 gallons of water per year. That's equivalent to 180 showers or 60 loads of laundry. If you have multiple dripping faucets throughout your home, the waste multiplies quickly. A home with three dripping faucets wastes nearly 9,500 gallons annually.

Financial impact: The average cost of water in the United States is about $1.50-$2.00 per 1,000 gallons. A single dripping faucet adds approximately $5-$7 to your annual water bill. While this might seem small, over the lifetime of your home, it adds up. If a faucet drips for five years before being fixed, you've wasted 15,000+ gallons of water and paid $25-$35 in unnecessary water charges. Many municipalities also charge sewer fees based on water usage, so the actual cost can be higher.

Environmental impact: Beyond your personal water bill, consider the broader environmental consequences. In drought-prone regions of the country, water waste is particularly concerning. The American Water Works Association estimates that household water leaks waste nearly 1 trillion gallons of water annually in the United States. That's enough water to supply 11 million homes for a year. By fixing your dripping faucet, you're doing your part to conserve this precious resource.

Why homeowners delay repairs: Many people ignore dripping faucets because they seem like a minor inconvenience. However, this procrastination is costly. A faucet that drips during the day may drip even faster at night or when water pressure is higher. What starts as a minor annoyance can escalate into a significant waste problem.

Psychological benefit: Beyond the financial and environmental aspects, fixing a dripping faucet provides psychological satisfaction. That annoying sound that's been bothering you disappears, and you know you're doing something positive for your home and the environment. Many homeowners report that completing a DIY repair boosts their confidence to tackle other home improvement projects.

Preventing future leaks: By understanding how your faucet works and performing this repair yourself, you're also learning valuable knowledge that helps you prevent future leaks. You'll recognize warning signs earlier and can address problems before they become severe.

Preventive Maintenance to Avoid Future Leaks

Once you've fixed your dripping faucet, you want to prevent the problem from recurring. Preventive maintenance is far easier and cheaper than repair.

Regular cleaning: Hard water deposits and mineral buildup are major causes of faucet problems, especially in cartridge and ceramic disk faucets. Once monthly, clean your faucet aerator (the screen at the tip of the spout). Unscrew it, soak it in white vinegar for 30 minutes, scrub gently with a soft brush, and reinstall it. This removes mineral deposits before they cause problems.

Check shut-off valves regularly: Once every six months, turn your shut-off valves a quarter turn clockwise, then back counterclockwise. This prevents them from seizing up. If a valve is stuck, apply penetrating oil and try again gently. A stuck valve is a major problem if you ever need to shut off water for an emergency.

Monitor water pressure: Excessive water pressure stresses faucet components and causes premature failure. If your water pressure feels unusually high (water shoots out forcefully when you turn on the tap), you may have a pressure problem. Consider installing a water pressure regulator. Ideal household water pressure is 40-60 PSI.

Replace washers proactively: If you have compression faucets, consider replacing the washers every 5-7 years even if they're not currently leaking. This prevents future drips and is a simple, inexpensive maintenance task.

Inspect under sinks monthly: Once monthly, look under your sinks for signs of leaks. Check for wet spots, discoloration, or soft spots in the cabinet. Early detection prevents water damage.

Use water softeners if needed: If you have hard water (indicated by white mineral deposits on your faucets and fixtures), consider installing a water softener. Hard water accelerates faucet wear and causes mineral buildup that clogs cartridges and ceramic disks.

Install aerators with screens: Aerators reduce water flow and can help catch mineral deposits before they enter your faucet. A quality aerator costs $5-$15 and can extend your faucet's life significantly.

Turn off water when away: If you're leaving your home for an extended period (more than a week), consider turning off the main water supply. This prevents leaks from causing water damage while you're away.

Know your faucet's age: Most faucets last 15-20 years with proper maintenance. If your faucet is approaching this age and starts having problems, replacement may be more cost-effective than repeated repairs. Modern faucets are more water-efficient and reliable than older models.

Keep repair supplies on hand: Stock your home with extra washers, O-rings, and cartridges for your specific faucet types. When a leak develops, you can fix it immediately rather than waiting for a trip to the hardware store.

Document your faucet model: When you install a new faucet or perform a repair, write down the manufacturer and model number. Store this information in a home maintenance binder. When you need parts, you'll know exactly what to order.

FAQ: Common Questions About Fixing Dripping Faucets

Q: What tools do I absolutely need to fix a dripping faucet?

A: At minimum, you need an adjustable wrench, a screwdriver (both Phillips and flathead), and a flashlight. These three tools handle 90% of faucet repairs. An adjustable wrench is the most important—it's used to remove the nuts that hold faucet components together. A screwdriver removes the handle screws, which are often hidden under decorative caps. A flashlight is essential because you'll be working in the dark space under your sink. If you want to be thorough, add a pair of pliers and an Allen wrench set. The total investment for a basic tool set is $30-$50, which you'll recoup after just one repair by not calling a plumber.

Q: How long does it take to fix a dripping faucet?

A: For someone with basic DIY skills, expect 30-60 minutes for a compression or ball faucet, and 20-45 minutes for a cartridge or ceramic disk faucet. This includes time to shut off the water, disassemble the faucet, identify and replace the faulty component, reassemble everything, and test the repair. If you encounter stuck or corroded components, add 15-30 minutes for applying penetrating oil and waiting for it to work. First-time repairs typically take longer because you're learning as you go. Your second repair of the same faucet type will be faster because you're familiar with the process. If you're very experienced with plumbing, you might complete the repair in 15-20 minutes, but don't rush—taking your time prevents mistakes.

Q: When should I stop and call a professional plumber instead of continuing with the DIY repair?

A: Stop immediately if you encounter any of these situations: you can't turn off the water supply, components are severely corroded or stuck and won't move even with penetrating oil, you discover water damage or mold under the sink, water leaks from the pipes rather than the faucet, you smell gas or detect unusual odors, the faucet has special features like integrated water filters that you're not comfortable working with, or you've followed the repair steps carefully and the faucet still drips after reassembly. Also stop if you're uncomfortable working with plumbing or if you don't have the necessary tools. There's no shame in calling a professional—they have specialized tools and experience that make the job faster and safer. A professional plumber can diagnose and fix most faucet problems in 30-60 minutes, and the $150-$300 service call is reasonable insurance against damaging your faucet or causing water damage.

Q: What's the most common reason a faucet drips?

A: In compression faucets, worn rubber washers are the most common culprit. These washers deteriorate over time and no longer seal properly, allowing water to drip. In ball faucets, worn inlet seals and springs cause dripping. In cartridge faucets, mineral deposits clog the cartridge or the cartridge itself wears out. In ceramic disk faucets, mineral deposits are usually the problem. The good news is that all of these problems are fixable with relatively inexpensive replacement parts ($5-$60 depending on the faucet type). Identifying the correct problem requires knowing your faucet type, which is why we covered that in detail earlier in this guide.

Q: Can I fix a dripping faucet without turning off the water supply?

A: No, absolutely not. Always turn off the water supply before attempting any faucet repair. Working on a faucet without shutting off the water is dangerous and will result in water spraying everywhere. When you disassemble the faucet, water will flow out of the pipes and make it impossible to see what you're doing. Additionally, you risk damaging components or flooding your home. The first step of any faucet repair is locating and turning off the shut-off valves under the sink (or the main water supply if those valves don't exist). Only after confirming the water is off should you proceed with the repair.

Q: What if I don't know what type of faucet I have?

A: Identifying your faucet type is straightforward. Count the handles: if you have two separate handles (one hot, one cold), you have a compression faucet. If you have one handle that moves side-to-side over a rounded cap, you have a ball faucet. If you have one handle that moves up and down, you likely have a cartridge faucet. If you have a single handle over a wide cylindrical body, you have a ceramic disk faucet. If you're still unsure, take a photo of your faucet and bring it to your local hardware store—staff can usually identify the type. You can also look under the sink for the faucet model number, which you can search online to determine the type.

Q: Is it cheaper to replace the faucet than to repair it?

A: Usually, repair is much cheaper. A faucet repair costs $30-$75 in materials, while a new faucet costs $100-$500+ installed. Repair makes sense if your faucet is less than 15 years old and the problem is a simple component replacement like washers or a cartridge. However, if your faucet is very old (20+ years), has multiple problems, or requires expensive component replacements, new faucet installation might be more cost-effective long-term. A new faucet is more water-efficient, more reliable, and comes with a warranty. If you're uncertain, get a quote from a plumber for both repair and replacement to compare costs.

Q: Can mineral deposits in my faucet cause it to drip?

A: Yes, mineral deposits are a common cause of dripping, especially in cartridge and ceramic disk faucets. Hard water contains minerals like calcium and magnesium that build up inside your faucet over time. These deposits can clog the small channels in cartridges or prevent ceramic disks from sealing properly. You can often fix mineral-related drips by cleaning the affected components with white vinegar. Soak the component for 30 minutes to several hours, then scrub gently with a soft brush and rinse thoroughly. If cleaning doesn't restore function, you'll need to replace the cartridge. Installing a water softener can prevent mineral buildup in the future, though this is a more significant investment ($500-$2,000 depending on system type).

Q: Is a dripping faucet covered by homeowner's insurance?

A: Generally, no. Homeowner's insurance covers sudden, accidental damage like a burst pipe flooding your home, but it doesn't cover normal wear and tear like a dripping faucet. However, if a dripping faucet causes water damage (like rotting cabinets or mold growth), the resulting damage might be covered. To avoid potential insurance issues, fix dripping faucets promptly before they cause secondary damage. Additionally, some insurance companies offer discounts for homes with good plumbing maintenance records, so documenting your repairs can be beneficial.

Conclusion

A dripping faucet is one of the most common and fixable household plumbing problems. By following this comprehensive guide, you can identify your faucet type, gather the necessary tools and materials, and complete the repair yourself in under an hour. The process is straightforward: turn off the water supply, disassemble the faucet, identify and replace the faulty component, reassemble everything, and test your work.

The benefits of fixing a dripping faucet extend far beyond saving money on your water bill. You'll eliminate an annoying sound, prevent water waste, and gain confidence in your ability to handle basic home repairs. The $30-$75 investment in materials and tools is a fraction of the $150-$300 you'd pay a professional plumber, and you'll learn valuable knowledge that helps you maintain your home effectively.

Remember, if you encounter complications—stuck components, water damage, or problems you can't diagnose—don't hesitate to call a professional plumber. Knowing when to ask for help is just as important as knowing when you can handle the repair yourself. With proper maintenance and prompt repairs, your faucets will serve you reliably for years to come, saving water and money while protecting your home from damage.